The Allegro Grille is right in my immediate
neighborhood, Maple Glen in Upper Dublin Twp., eastern Montgomery
County. Since owner/chef Joseph Scarpa opened this inviting Italian
restaurant four years ago, I have visited and dined there many
times, not just because it is so close by, but because my wife and I
like the food and ambiance very much.
Scarpa, who also owns Allegro Pizza in the University City area, and
Ecco Qui on the Drexel U. campus,
gutted and completely renovated the depressing deli which the space
had been. He designed a lovely Old World Italian-style dining room,
with soothing stucco walls and warm lighting, a high arched ceiling,
travertine tile flooring, and decorative Italianate columns. It has
a giant, spotlessly clean tropical fish tank, a small bar with
counter seating, and a partially open kitchen. It took him quite a
while to complete this makeover, but the results were worth waiting
for.
We both especially like one of his truly inspired appetizers, the
Zupetta (“little soup”), so much so that we keep coming back for it.
It is a savory seafood combination of shrimp and scallops, and
mussels & clams still in their shells. The dish’s piece d’resistance
is the “soup,” i.e. the delicious, tomato-based sauce, chock full of
chopped clams and garlic. It comes with toasted slices of Italian
bread for dipping into this marvelously tasty sauce. I also like to
spoon it up using a mussel shell. Large enough as an appetizer for
two, we order two Zupettas as our entrées (at only $12, an
inexpensive main course), with an additional side dish of salad or
sautéed spinach, a glass of wine, perhaps a cappuccino, and calling
it dinner.
Most recently, we dined at Allegro Grille on a Saturday night. By
8:00, the 90-seat dining room was 90% full. As we entered, an
electronic keyboardist was playing and singing so loudly that we
couldn’t hear the hostess’ greeting, nor our capable server,
Francesca, when she recited the evening’s specials. We requested
that he turn down the volume and were obliged. He later switched to
his guitar and sang some Italian classics, which I actually enjoyed.
The meal’s pace was moderately slow, but acceptable and
understandable given the full Saturday night crowd. (In general, if
you want to experience a restaurant at its best, try going on a
mid-weekday evening, unless you are one of those who would actually
miss the TGI-Friday’s-like clamor of a popular place on the
weekend).
Two chilled glasses of white wine and a
basket of fresh, three sided Italian rolls with poured olive oil
got things off to a buono start. Another of chef Scarpa’s
inspired appetizers large enough for three if not four, Il
Giardino ($9.50), was a beautiful, colorful medley of grilled
red pepper, eggplant and zucchini, tomatoes, black & green
olives, a generous serving of imported Parma prosciutto and mild
provolone…a great way to begin. We also tried one of Allegro’s
two soups of the day, a classic Pasta Fagiole ($4), a hearty and
delicious tomato-based soup with pasta and beans.
My LDC had to have her favorite, the seafood
Zupetta. She boo-hoo’d that the sauce was not as chock-full of
the chopped clams this time, but that it still tasted as
peppery- and garlicky- good as ever. I went with and reveled in
a magnificent Osso Buco ($24), which filled the plate with two
large 2-inch-thick cuts of tender veal shank on the bone,
risotto, and baby carrots in an exquisite sauce. Superb! As good
as this Italian specialty can be made. One caution: veal shank
can be a little fatty around the edges, so if that bothers you,
don’t order it, but that’s partly what makes it so good.
Aficionados of this dish even spoon out the cholesterol-rich
marrow of the shankbone.
Desserts are from the unparalleled supplier, Bindi, including
lots of cheesecakes, mousses, Key lime, caramel Granny Smith
apple pie, etc., on a mouthwatering dessert tray, plus sorbets
and gelati. We “yummed” the Turtle Cheesecake – a
picture-perfect presentation of nuts, caramel and chocolate atop
creamy rich cheesecake. My decaf Cappuccino was in an overly
large mug, but well-made and tasting just right.
For the budget minded, the Allegro Grille offers a 3-course
Early Bird dinner for $10.95, Mon – Thu, 3:30 to 5:30, and on
Sundays the 2nd entrée is half price.
Overall Rating: mmmm (out of 5 m’s) for an excellent
Italian dinner.
To contact Mitch Davis, you can e-mail him at:
MdavisMainCourse@aol.com
